Riga
Modern Latvian capital and historic Hanseatic League member
One of the three Baltic nations, Latvia sits on the coast sandwiched between Lithuania and Estonia. It is a small country with a population of just under two million, but since joining the EU in May 2004 its economy has boomed. Latvia regained its independence in 1991 at the fall of the Soviet Union, and at the time of our visit over 40% of the residents were Russian, however this proportion has since tailed down. Historically the country has also been ruled by Sweden and Germany over the centuries. Riga itself was founded in 1201 and was one of the powerful Baltic trading hubs as a member of the Hanseatic League.
We arrived in Riga in summer 2004, on an overnight train from Moscow but feeling not altogether bedraggled. We lodged at the hostel “Posh Backpackers” (only one of those words is accurate), which was conveniently next to the market area. We only stayed one night and it rained incessantly as we traipsed the otherwise pretty streets of the old town, but we had a good night out in a Latvian nightclub with a new friend we found, in of all places, an Irish pub. Everything was unbelievably cheap, I spent only around £10 during my stay, including all food, drinks, accommodation and the bus to our next destination, Tallinn.
There has been a reasonable amount of urban renewal in the centre of Riga, such as the new station-shopping complex with its clock tower. Gold letters announce your location “Riga” at the top. During the time we were in town, prices in the shops were akin to UK prices in the late 1980s, and especially easy to determine as the Latvian currency (the now-defunct Lat) had a 1:1 exchange rate with Sterling. I bought a Mars bar for 20p.
Riga Central Market is housed within retired zeppelin hangers. They were acquired during the 1920s from Germany in prefabricated sections, allowing a budget market to be constructed.
Inside one of the former zeppelin hangers of Riga Central Market. I had a belt-busting lunch for the sum total of 39 pence.
Into the old town next, all a UNESCO World Heritage Site, we set off up Šķūņu iela which is lined with old Germanic-style buildings. These ones are opposite St Peter’s Church.
Heading up Šķūņu iela, we got drenched by the rain fairly quickly, but it was clear to see what a nice place it would be during better weather. The green spire ahead is St Jacob’s Catholic Cathedral.
Livu Square is one of the centres of old Riga, and is lined with pretty buildings which were still doing their best to look photogenic, despite the rain. The whole old town had quite a Germanic feel to it, and in the background the spire of St Peter’s Church is visible.
The Latvian National Symphony Orchestra has its home in the Great or Large Guild with the narrow turrets up ahead. Like the Guild Halls of Brussels, it was a place for tradespeople of particular crafts, and the current building dates from 1854.
Perhaps the most iconic and recognisable sight in old Riga is the House of the Blackheads, built in 1334 for the Brotherhood of Blackheads guild of unmarried merchants. It was badly damaged during the second world war, and further flattened by the Soviets, but was restored for all to enjoy again in 2000. The spire on the left is again St Peter’s Church, a testimony to the centuries of German dominance in the region. Construction began in 1209, and significant restoration was also required after the Second World War.
Another view of Livu Square, normally much livelier I am told, and studded with coffee shops and guild halls all around. There is an ice rink set up here in the winter.
The Freedom Monument is a potent symbol of Latvia, built in 1935 it is surprising that it was not destroyed by the Soviets. It is topped by the Statue of Liberty, Milda, holding three stars, representing the three regions of Latvia. During the Soviet occupation the monument acted as a travel agency: anyone daring enough to lay flowers at its base would get a one-way ticket to Siberia.
Created 2004 | Updated 2013, 2024
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